
Let’s be real for a second: taking a portrait is easy, but making a portrait is hard. Anyone with a smartphone can point it at a human and press a button. But if you’ve ever looked at your shots and thought, “Why does this look like a DMV photo instead of a magazine cover?” you’re likely falling into one of the classic traps.
Portraiture is a weird, beautiful dance between technical precision and psychological warfare. You’re trying to manage light, focus, and composition while simultaneously convincing a person: who is probably feeling awkward: to look like they’re having the time of their life. It’s a lot.
Whether you’re just starting out with portrait photography techniques 101 or you’ve been at it for a while, these seven mistakes are the most common dream-killers in the industry. Let’s break them down and, more importantly, let’s fix them so your work actually stands out.
1. The "Soft Eye" Sin (Missing the Focus)
If there is one rule in portrait photography that you should never, ever break, it’s this: the eyes must be sharp.
In every human interaction, we look at the eyes first. They are the "windows to the soul," or whatever poetic thing you want to call them. If the eyes are soft, the entire portrait is a failure. I don't care how good the lighting is or how expensive your lens was; if the tip of the nose is sharp but the eyes are blurry, the photo goes in the trash.
Why It Happens
Usually, this happens because you’re shooting with a very wide aperture (like f/1.4 or f/1.8) to get that delicious blurry background, but your focus point is slightly off. At those apertures, the depth of field is paper-thin. If your subject leans forward an inch, they’re out of focus.
The Fix
- Use Eye-AF: Most modern mirrorless cameras have "Eye-Auto Focus." If you have it, turn it on and never turn it off. It’s like magic. If you're still deciding on gear, check out our guide on choosing the best mirrorless cameras to see which ones have the best tracking.
- Focus on the Closest Eye: If the subject is at an angle, always focus on the eye nearest to the camera.
- Stop Down Slightly: If you’re struggling, move from f/1.8 to f/2.8. You’ll still get a great background, but you’ll have a much higher hit rate for sharp eyes.

2. Lighting Disasters: Raccoon Eyes and Flat Faces
Light is the "photo" in photography. Without good light, you’re just a person with an expensive box. The two biggest mistakes here are "Raccoon Eyes" (caused by harsh overhead sun) and "Flat Light" (caused by shooting directly in front of the subject with no shadows).
Raccoon Eyes
When you shoot at noon, the sun is directly overhead. This creates deep, dark shadows in the eye sockets. Your subject looks like they haven’t slept since the 90s.
The Fix: Move your subject into "open shade." Look for the edge of a building or a tree. You want them to be in the shade, but facing the bright light. This creates soft, even light on the face without the harsh shadows. If you're stuck in the sun, use a reflector to bounce some light back up into their eyes.
Flat Light
On the flip side, shooting on a very cloudy day or with a flash pointed directly at someone can make their face look like a pancake. You lose all the dimension of their features.
The Fix: Use directional light. Position your subject so the light is coming from the side (at about a 45-degree angle). This creates subtle shadows that define the jawline and cheekbones. For more advanced tips on this, PhotoGuides.org has some great deep dives on studio lighting setups.

3. The "Busy Background" Trap
We’ve all done it. You take a beautiful photo of a friend, only to realize later that there’s a telephone pole growing out of their head or a bright red trash can in the corner that steals all the attention.
Your background should support your subject, not compete with them. If the background is too busy, your viewer doesn’t know where to look.
The Fix
- Check the Edges: Before you click the shutter, do a quick scan of the edges of your frame. Is there anything distracting?
- Increase Subject-to-Background Distance: If you can’t change the background, move your subject further away from it. This naturally increases the "bokeh" (blur) and helps them pop.
- Use a Longer Lens: An 85mm or 135mm lens will compress the background and make it look much smoother than a wide-angle lens.
If you’re just starting, you might want to dive into our Photography 101 guide to understand how focal length affects your compositions.

4. The "Mannequin" Effect (Stiff Posing)
Most people hate being in front of a camera. It’s an unnatural experience. When people are nervous, they stiffen up. Their shoulders go up to their ears, their hands turn into claws, and their smile looks like they’re being held at gunpoint.
If you just stand there and say "cheese," you’re going to get boring, stiff photos.
The Fix
- Keep Them Moving: Don’t let them stay in one pose for more than three seconds. Tell them to walk, adjust their hair, or look away and then look back. Movement creates natural lines and expressions.
- Give the Hands a Job: Uncomfortable hands are the biggest giveaway of a nervous subject. Give them something to hold: a coffee cup, a jacket, their own glasses. Or tell them to put one hand in a pocket.
- The "Chicken Neck": To avoid a double chin, tell your subject to push their forehead toward the camera and then slightly down. It feels ridiculous, but it defines the jawline beautifully.
For more on this, Edin Chavez often talks about the importance of connection on his personal blog at blog.edinchavez.com. It’s worth a read if you want to learn how to make people feel comfortable.

5. Lens Distortion: The "Big Nose" Effect
Choosing the wrong lens for a portrait is a recipe for disaster. If you use a wide-angle lens (like a 24mm or 35mm) and get close to someone’s face, the parts of the face closest to the lens: usually the nose: will look much larger than they actually are. It distorts the features and is generally very unflattering.
The Fix
Stick to "portrait lengths." The industry standards are 50mm, 85mm, and 105mm. These lenses have less distortion and provide a more flattering compression of facial features. If you are shooting corporate headshots, an 85mm is almost always the right answer.
If you're using a zoom lens, try to stay at the longer end of the zoom for portraits. Your subject will thank you when they don't look like they're being viewed through a fishbowl.
6. Awkward Cropping (The "Joint Chop")
There is a weird psychological thing that happens when we see a photo where someone's limbs are cut off at the joints. It makes the viewer feel uneasy, like they’re looking at an amputee.
The Rule: Never crop at the "bends." This means don't cut off the photo at the wrists, elbows, knees, or ankles.
The Fix
Crop mid-thigh, mid-waist, or mid-forearm. If you’re doing a tight headshot, don't crop at the neck; include a bit of the shoulders to provide a base for the head. Understanding these composition rules is a huge part of mastering manual mode, as it gives you the headspace to think about framing instead of just settings.
7. Over-Editing: The "Plastic Skin" Look
We live in the age of AI, and while tools like Luminar have made retouching incredibly easy, it’s also very easy to go overboard. We’ve all seen those portraits where the skin is so smooth that the person looks like a CGI character from a 2004 video game. No pores, no texture, no soul.
The Fix
- Keep the Texture: When you're using AI-powered skin smoothing, dial it back. You want to remove blemishes and even out skin tones, but you must keep the skin texture.
- Watch the Eyes and Teeth: Don't whiten them so much that they glow in the dark. It looks fake and distracting.
- Take a Break: After you finish an edit, walk away for ten minutes. When you come back with fresh eyes, you’ll often realize you pushed the sliders too far.
If you’re interested in how AI is changing the game without ruining your photos, check out our piece on AI-powered mirrorless tech.

Bringing It All Together
Portrait photography is a journey. You’re going to make mistakes. I’ve been doing this for years, and I still occasionally forget to check for a "tree growing out of a head" or accidentally clip a focus point. The difference between a pro and a hobbyist isn't that the pro never makes mistakes: it's that the pro knows how to identify and fix them quickly.
If you want to dive deeper into the technical side of things and really master your craft, you should check out our full range of courses at Learn Shut Your Aperture. We break down everything from lighting setups to advanced posing so you can stop guessing and start creating.
Remember, the best portrait isn't necessarily the most technically perfect one; it's the one that captures the essence of the person in front of your lens. Get the technical stuff right so it can get out of the way of the story you're trying to tell.
And if you’re looking for some inspiration to see what’s possible with high-end portraiture, take a look at the fine art galleries over at www.edinfineart.com. Seeing world-class work is often the best way to reset your own standards.
Now, grab your camera, find a willing (or unwilling) subject, and go practice these fixes. Your next favorite portrait is just a few adjustments away.