Updated October 2026

Do you ever wonder why everyone keeps telling you to shoot RAW? Here is the short answer: a RAW file keeps the information your camera actually captured, and a JPEG throws a lot of it away. That difference decides whether a flat, dark, “useless” photo is a throwaway or a keeper. The before and after slider below is a good example. Drag it and see what a RAW file can recover when you edit it in Lightroom.

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You can use any editing software to pull the detail out of a RAW file. Lightroom is a great choice, and it is what the sample above was edited in. This guide explains what RAW is, how it compares with JPEG, when each one makes sense and exactly what you can fix after the fact.

What is a RAW file?

When you press the shutter, the sensor records light as raw data. In RAW mode, the camera saves that data with very little processing. It is not a finished picture yet. It is more like a digital negative, ready to be developed.

In JPEG mode, the camera does the developing for you. It sets white balance, adds contrast and color, sharpens, reduces noise and then compresses the file to save space. The result looks good right away, but a lot of the original information is gone for good, and you can only make small changes before the image starts to break down.

RAW vs JPEG: the key differences

  • Detail and tonal range. RAW files hold much more information in the brightest and darkest parts of the picture. That is what lets you rescue a sky or open a shadow.
  • White balance. In RAW, white balance is a setting you can change freely. In JPEG, it is baked in, and fixes can leave strange color casts.
  • Editing flexibility. RAW takes heavy edits without falling apart. JPEG shows banding, noise and artifacts when pushed.
  • File size. RAW files are bigger, so they fill cards and drives faster.
  • Ready to use. JPEG files can be shared right away. RAW files need processing first.
  • Compatibility. JPEG opens anywhere. RAW needs software that supports your camera’s format.

What you can fix in a RAW file

Exposure. A photo that is one or two stops too dark or bright can often be brought back with a clean result. The same fix in a JPEG usually adds noise or turns highlights to flat white.

Highlights and shadows. Pull the Highlights slider down and the clouds in a washed-out sky return. Lift the Shadows slider and detail appears in a dark foreground. This is the biggest reason landscape and sunrise photographers shoot RAW.

White balance. Shot under mixed light or with the wrong setting? Change it with a click and the photo looks natural again, with no color damage.

Color and tone. RAW files give you smooth gradients, so you can adjust color and contrast without banding in the sky.

Noise. High ISO shots hold up better. Noise reduction works more cleanly on RAW data than on a JPEG that has already been processed and compressed.

Sharpening and detail. You can control exactly how much sharpening to apply and where, instead of living with whatever the camera chose.

When to shoot RAW

Shoot RAW any time you care about the result and expect to edit. That includes landscapes, sunrises and sunsets, portraits, weddings, travel, street work and anything in tricky or high-contrast light. If a photo might become a print, a client delivery or a portfolio piece, RAW is the safe choice.

It is also a safety net. Mistakes happen. You forget to change white balance, you meter off the wrong thing, you shoot in dim light. A RAW file gives you a second chance to save the shot.

When JPEG is fine

JPEG is not evil. It is a good choice for quick snapshots, fast sports bursts where buffer speed matters, or any situation where you want files you can share right away and do not plan to edit. Many cameras also let you shoot RAW and JPEG together, so you get a ready-to-share file and a RAW backup.

How to switch your camera to RAW

The exact steps depend on the brand, but the idea is the same. Open the menu, find Image Quality or File Format, and choose RAW or RAW plus JPEG. On many phones, RAW or ProRAW is available in the camera app settings or in a pro mode. Check your manual if you cannot find it.

Take a few test shots, then import them into Lightroom. If you can open and edit them, you are set. If your editing software cannot read the files, update it, since new cameras sometimes need a software update to support their RAW format.

A simple RAW editing workflow in Lightroom

  1. Import and review. Pick your best frames and rate them.
  2. Crop and straighten. Fix the framing first.
  3. Set white balance. Use the eyedropper on something neutral, or adjust Temperature and Tint by eye.
  4. Fix exposure. Bring overall brightness to a good starting point.
  5. Recover highlights and shadows. Pull Highlights down, lift Shadows and set Whites and Blacks for a full tonal range.
  6. Add contrast and color. Use Vibrance and Saturation with care.
  7. Apply local edits. Use graduated filters, radial filters and brushes for the sky, subject and foreground.
  8. Sharpen and reduce noise. Finish in the Detail panel.
  9. Export. Make a JPEG for sharing or a TIFF for print, and keep the RAW file safe.

Managing RAW files without losing your mind

RAW files take space. A busy shoot can fill a card fast, so buy larger memory cards and a fast, reliable reader. Back up every import to at least two places, such as an external drive and a cloud service. Delete the obvious misses early, and keep your catalog organized with folders, ratings and keywords so you can find shots later.

Do not delete the RAW after you export a JPEG. The RAW file is your negative. You may want to re-edit it in a year with better skills or better software, and the improvement can be dramatic.

RAW file formats: CR3, NEF, ARW, DNG and more

There is no single RAW format. Each camera maker uses its own: Canon uses CR2 and CR3, Nikon uses NEF, Sony uses ARW, Fujifilm uses RAF and so on. Adobe also offers DNG, an open format that many editors can read. A DNG can be a good long-term archive choice, since it does not depend on one manufacturer. Whatever you shoot, keep your software updated so it can read new camera files, and keep the original RAW even if you convert a copy.

Common RAW myths

“RAW makes every photo better.” It does not. RAW gives you more to work with, but you still need good light, focus and composition. A badly framed photo is badly framed in any format.

“RAW is only for professionals.” Not true. Beginners benefit just as much, since they make more exposure and white balance mistakes, and RAW forgives those mistakes.

“RAW files are huge and unusable.” They are bigger, but storage is cheap now. A good card and an external drive solve it.

“Editing RAW is cheating.” Film photographers developed and printed their negatives with plenty of care. A RAW file is your negative, and editing it is the modern darkroom.

Real-world examples of RAW rescue

Think of three common problems. First, a sunrise with a bright sky and a dark beach: in JPEG you must pick one or the other, but in RAW you can lower the highlights and raise the shadows to keep both. Second, an indoor portrait with orange lamp light: in JPEG the skin looks off and fixing it makes it worse, but in RAW you set white balance after the fact and the skin looks natural. Third, a night street scene at a high ISO: RAW gives noise reduction cleaner data to work with, so you keep more detail.

In each case, the information was in the file all along. Shooting RAW simply made sure it was not thrown away.

A beginner RAW checklist

  • Set image quality to RAW or RAW plus JPEG.
  • Buy a card with enough space and speed.
  • Check the histogram while you shoot, and protect the highlights.
  • Import and back up the day you shoot.
  • Edit one photo at a time and learn what each slider does.
  • Save your edited version as a new file and keep the RAW original.
  • Revisit old RAW files every so often. Your editing skills will improve.

Common RAW mistakes

Underexposing too much. RAW is forgiving, but pulling up a very dark file adds noise. Get exposure close in the camera.

Overexposing highlights. If a highlight is pure white, there is no data to recover. Check the histogram and keep it off the right edge.

Skipping the edit. A RAW file straight out of the camera often looks flatter than a JPEG, since it has no contrast or sharpening added. That is normal. Edit it.

Over-editing. Just because RAW lets you push sliders far does not mean you should. Aim for natural results.

Poor backups. One drive is not a backup. Use two or more.

How RAW changes the way you shoot

Once you shoot RAW for a while, your habits change. You stop worrying about perfect white balance in the field and start thinking more about light, framing and timing. You learn to expose for the highlights, since you know the shadows can be lifted later. You also start to see your photos as raw material, a starting point that gets better with care. That mindset is worth more than any camera setting, because it pushes you to finish your pictures, not just capture them. Give it a month of RAW shooting and editing, and compare your new photos with your old JPEGs. The gap is usually obvious, and it keeps growing as you practice.

Keep learning with the Academy

If you want to get the most out of your RAW files, the Lightroom editing course in the Shut Your Aperture Academy walks you through the whole process. It is a beginner-friendly post-processing course taught by Edin Chavez, with 10 modules and 42+ parts you can go through at your own pace and lifetime access. Pair it with the Mastering ISO course to get cleaner files at the camera, or browse the full Academy. Ready to practice? Try our Lightroom sunrise tutorial or the portrait editing guide on a RAW file of your own.

Frequently asked questions

Is shooting RAW better than JPEG?

For editing, yes. RAW keeps more detail and gives you more room to fix exposure, white balance and color. JPEG is better when you want quick, ready-to-share files.

Do I need Lightroom to edit RAW files?

No. Many programs open RAW files, including your camera maker’s free software. Lightroom is a popular choice because it combines editing and organizing.

Why do RAW photos look flat?

The camera applies no contrast, sharpening or color boost to RAW data. That is intentional, so you can shape the look yourself.

How much more space do RAW files take?

It depends on the camera, but RAW files are usually several times larger than JPEGs. Plan for bigger cards and more storage.

Can I shoot RAW on my phone?

Many phones offer RAW or ProRAW in the camera app or a pro mode. It helps in tricky light, but standard photos are fine for casual snaps.

Should I shoot RAW plus JPEG?

It is a good middle road. You get a quick file to share and a RAW file for editing. Just remember it uses even more storage.

Gear box: RAW workflow starting points

These are research starting points, not rankings. Check current specs, reviews and prices before you buy.

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