Updated October 2026
Black and white street photography does not need a perfect sunny afternoon. Sebastian Jacobit’s Berlin After Dark series takes the opposite approach: winter streets, Christmas decorations, faces close to the camera, and flash that cuts through the night. This feature first appeared in April 2018. The original twelve photographs remain here, with a closer look at what makes their visual language work and practical tips for developing your own night photography.
The original feature identifies Jacobit as a Berlin street photographer and describes these pictures as a Christmas-season series around the city’s markets and Ku’Damm. It names a Ricoh GR and a speedlight as his equipment. That is historical context, not a current equipment recommendation or a complete record of his camera settings. The discussion below is editorial analysis of the pictures and a practice workflow, not an account of a shoot I made in Berlin.
I like photographs that give you a reason to look twice. These do it with faces, dark gaps, and streaks of light. The expressions range from open and animated to guarded and inward-looking. A face can suggest a story without proving what someone felt. That distinction matters. Looking closely is useful; making up a stranger’s thoughts is not.
Berlin After Dark: start with the pictures
Before thinking about settings, look at the relationship between the face and everything around it. Many of these frames put a person near one edge while bright decorations stretch through the rest of the photograph. The darkness is not empty filler. It gives the lit face a place to stand out and stops every detail from demanding equal attention.
The pictures also resist the neat, distant view that often defines a city at night. We are close to people rather than watching a skyline. A coat, a scarf, a hand, or the edge of a shopping bag becomes part of the frame. That closeness gives the series energy, but it should not be mistaken for a universal instruction to step into strangers’ personal space.
Study the frames as a sequence as well as individual pictures. The repeated flash-lit faces and trailing lights hold them together. Expressions and surroundings change enough to keep that repetition from becoming identical. A series needs both continuity and surprise. If every image uses the same visual trick without adding anything, the trick starts to become the subject.
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SaveFlash and ambient light tell different parts of the story
The most useful technical idea here is the balance between flash and existing light. Flash can make a nearby person stand out while the decorations and shop lights keep the scene connected to its location. If the background disappears completely, the picture may lose the atmosphere that made you stop. If everything is equally bright, the face may have to compete with the whole street.
Slow-sync flash is one way to include background light in a night photograph. Nikon’s flash documentation describes slower shutter speeds being used to capture that background lighting. The precise modes, speed limits, and available controls depend on your camera and flash. Read the manual for the equipment you actually have rather than copying a setting from another system.
Bright trails alongside a comparatively clear face are visually consistent with movement recorded during an exposure that also includes flash. That does not tell us the exact shutter speed, flash power, sync mode, or handling of any particular Berlin frame. A photograph is evidence of the result, not a complete settings log. Treat the look as a direction to explore, not a recipe we can reverse-engineer with certainty.
In your own practice, separate the questions. Is the person bright enough? Does the background retain the light you want? Is movement helping the frame or making it unreadable? Change one control at a time and inspect the result. Jumping between several settings after every frame makes it harder to understand which decision actually changed the picture.
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SaveGive blur a job
Blur is not automatically interesting. It can suggest speed, restlessness, or the movement of a crowded night, but it can also cover the only detail that matters. These pictures often keep enough facial detail to let the viewer return to a person after following the light trails. That balance is worth studying. An effect works best when something in the frame gives it meaning.
Look at where a light trail crosses the subject. Across an empty patch of a coat it may add rhythm. Across an eye it may take away the expression. A trail can pull the eye toward a face or sweep it straight out of the frame. You cannot always control that in a live street scene, but you can recognize it when choosing pictures afterward.
A useful practice exercise is to photograph a willing subject near stationary decorative lights in a safe place. Begin with a readable portrait, then test how a slower exposure changes the surroundings. Keep the framing simple. Review each version at a small size as well as full resolution. The strongest result may contain less blur than the most dramatic result.
Do not label an accident as intentional simply because it looks unusual. Sometimes an unexpected frame is worth keeping; sometimes it is just a missed picture. Ask whether the photograph communicates more than the technique. If the only reason to include it is that the lines look wild, it may not belong in the final series.
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SaveBlack and white is a relationship, not a rescue button
Removing color does not remove the need for composition. A bright sign still demands attention. A pale coat can still merge with a light background. Two forms that were separated by color may become the same gray. Look for differences in brightness, texture, shape, and spacing before deciding that monochrome is the right treatment.
The dark areas in this series make the illuminated faces and decorations feel more immediate. That does not mean every black and white street photograph needs deep black shadows. Choose contrast for the scene. A quieter image may depend on middle tones and subtle edges. Applying the same heavy preset to every photograph can erase those differences.
When editing your own raw files, compare the original with the conversion. Check skin, clothing, signs, and any reflections. Adjustments that help one part of the photograph can damage another. A stronger face is useful; a face stripped of natural detail because the whole image was pushed too hard is a different result. Judge the whole frame after each significant change.
Keep a color original and a restrained starting version. They give you something to return to when an edit gets away from you. At the end, reduce the image to the size a reader will actually see. If the subject disappears on a phone, the large-screen version may be giving you false confidence. Readability matters more than how dramatic the editing sliders look.
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SaveCompose around faces without inventing their stories
The original feature admired the range of emotions in these pictures. That is part of their appeal, but a photograph does not establish a person’s inner life. A serious face may belong to someone concentrating, waiting, or simply caught between expressions. A smile does not tell us the circumstances behind it. Keep captions tied to what is visible.
In a frame with a person near the edge, check the space they are facing and the shapes beside them. That space can feel open, crowded, or abrupt. A column or window edge can divide the photograph; a bright sign can act like a second subject. None of these arrangements is right by rule. The question is whether the relationships make the picture worth staying with.
Hands and everyday objects can carry as much information as faces. The decorated heart in one image, a cigarette in another, and the shopping cart in another provide specific details. They keep the series attached to ordinary life rather than becoming twelve generic examples of flash. Look for details that belong naturally to the situation, not objects you force into a scene to make it seem meaningful.
When selecting your own work, avoid publishing several nearly identical expressions because you like the lighting. Choose the frame in which gesture, surrounding shapes, and light work together. Then ask what the next image contributes. A sequence can move between intimacy, humor, uncertainty, and a quieter pause without claiming to explain the people photographed.
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SaveWork respectfully, especially when flash makes you noticeable
Flash changes the interaction, not only the exposure. It can startle someone and makes your presence obvious. Do not treat surprise or discomfort as proof that you are making strong work. Give people space, avoid blocking their route, and stop when someone objects. A picture is not worth turning an ordinary evening into an unpleasant encounter.
For an exercise like this, willing subjects are a good starting point. You can learn the relationship between light, distance, and movement without using strangers as test material. Explain what you are doing and let people see the result. That also gives you time to solve technical problems before trying to respond to unpredictable situations.
Be careful near traffic, cyclists, crossings, and any situation where a burst of light could distract someone performing a safety-critical task. Choose a safe place to stand before paying attention to your screen. Keep bags and equipment out of walking paths. A busy night scene gives you plenty to observe without needing to make the surroundings less safe.
This historical Berlin feature is not legal advice or a current guide to photography and publication rules in Germany. Requirements can depend on where you are, what you photograph, and how you use the image. Check current authoritative guidance for your planned use. Do not assume that the publication of a 2018 series proves permission for every new photograph or commercial project.
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SaveA simple night-photography practice plan
Choose a safe, accessible setting with a few interesting lights and a willing subject. Look at the frame before introducing flash. Where are the brightest points? Which background detail explains the setting? Is there room around the subject to show those details without cutting through the face? Take a test and use it to answer those questions.
Then make a small set of variations rather than an endless burst. Try a cleaner frame, a frame with more visible background light, and a frame that allows movement to become part of the composition. Keep notes on your actual settings and the distance to your subject. Those notes turn the exercise into something you can repeat instead of a vague memory of a lucky result.
At home, choose a short sequence. Remove duplicates, weak expressions, accidental distractions, and images that depend entirely on the effect. Convert carefully, compare tones across the set, and check that every photograph adds something. Leave time between editing and final selection if possible. The picture that first catches your eye is not always the one that holds it.
Back up the originals before clearing cards. Keep the edits and exports with a clear folder name so the sequence is easy to find later. A portable drive can hold a working copy, but one drive is not a complete backup plan. Keep another independent copy and verify important transfers. The storage option below is for that workflow, not equipment attributed to Jacobit.
To build stronger habits around composition, light, and image selection, explore the Shut Your Aperture Academy. The goal is to make decisions you can explain and repeat. A better understanding of the frame helps whether you are working in afternoon light, at a market after dark, or with a willing subject outside a shop window.
Frequently asked questions
Who made the Berlin After Dark photographs?
The original feature attributes the twelve photographs to Sebastian Jacobit, a Berlin street photographer. They are not photographs by Edin Chavez.
What camera and flash did the original feature name?
The historical feature names a Ricoh GR and a speedlight. It does not establish a complete settings log or the exact flash model.
How can flash and light trails appear together?
Flash can illuminate a nearby subject while a slower exposure records ambient lights and movement. The exact balance depends on the camera, flash, scene, and settings.
Should every night street photograph be black and white?
No. Choose monochrome when brightness, texture, and shape communicate the picture well. Color may carry important information that a black and white conversion removes.
Can I copy the series by flashing strangers at night?
Treat respect and safety as part of the process. Begin with willing subjects, avoid distracting people in unsafe situations, stop when someone objects, and check current local rules for photography and publication.
Source note: Series history and equipment attribution come from this feature’s original 2018 text; general slow-sync background-light guidance is described in Nikon’s flash documentation.